On the morning of my first full day in Berlin I visited the dome of the Reichstag. Sounds fascinating…. Actually, it was interesting and certainly dramatic looking.
The Reichstag building is where Germany’s parliament meets. However, that’s always been the case. The building was completed in 1894 and was used thereafter just over 20 years by the parliament of the German Empire. In 1918 following the defeat of imperial Germany and abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II the Weimar Republic was proclaimed from a balcony of the building, and it was used as the parliament building for the republic. Then in early 1933 the National Socialists came to power, and shortly afterwards a fire gutted the main meeting chamber. This was used as the pretext for emergency rule – i.e. rule without the need for parliamentary approval – and for the rest of the Nazi era the Reichstag building was unused. Then it was damaged both in the bombing of Berlin and during the final battle for Berlin at the end of WWII. There’s a famous image of the Hammer & Sickle flag being raised on the roof by red army soldiers during their capture of Berlin.
After the war the building was essentially a ruin. To add to the problem the boundary between the Soviet and US zones of Berlin ran within just metres of it – the Reichstag was in West Berlin, but the Brandenburg Gate, just a couple of hundred yards away, lay in East Berlin. So the building lay largely derelict for a number of years. The Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany) had its capital in Bonn, including the location of its parliament, the Bundestag, so there was no pressing use for the Reichstag building in Berlin. However the building was repaired and restored, at least externally – essentially the shell was restored, and internal meeting rooms were created, but no formal chamber was built. Also, as part of these restorations the previous cupola on the roof was removed. (The German Democratic Republic – East Germany – declared East Berlin to be its capital and built its own parliament building in the east. However, this was a Soviet-style show parliament, not an expression of democratic will.)
Then came the events late 1989 when the wall came down, and in October 1990 Germany was formally reunited. The Bundestag of the enlarged Germany declared that Berlin would be its capital and would also be the location of its parliament, so the Reichstag building would be in business again. Sir Norman Foster won an international architectural competition to reconstruct the building within the existing shell, and his design included a new dome, of steel and glass, on the roof. The construction was finished and the Reichstag building held its first session of the parliament of the Federal Republic of Germany on 6 September 1999.
The dome is open to visitors, and I had made an appointment on-line in advance. When arrived I found that a number of other people also had the same time slot. First, after being checked against the list of registrants – I had to have id for that so I had my passport – we were all taken into the ground floor of the building. Then we entered a very large lift (elevator) capable of holding perhaps 30 people, which took us straight to the roof terrace level where we all got out. From then on we were free to walk around as we wished.
There’s a large terrace on the roof with the dome in the centre. I walked around the terrace for a while before going into the dome. In the centre of the dome is a large circular display/exhibition – it recounts the history of the parliament and of the building. It doesn’t shy away from the events of the 1930s under National Socialist regime. Rising up from the centre and fanning out as it rises is a large mirrored column, and around the side is a spiral walkway/ramp. Actually, two ramps, one for visitors ascending and the other for those descending. At the top of the ramp is a small open area just below summit of the dome, which is in fact open; wind, rain and snow all enter this top chamber. This top chamber also houses a funnel that rises from the column – it’s suggested that this allows hot air generated in the debating chamber far below to escape!
I found this to be an interesting visit, with the added bonus of some dramatic architecture. I’d recommend it for visitors to Berlin.
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